After nearly two weeks of waiting they came in, die-cut non-yellowing white gauge faces they are AWESOME quality.
They come over sized in certain areas so you need to cut them down, but they fit over the stock faces perfectly with a small amount of overlap to hide any placement mistakes.
Red bulbs wont be here for atleast 2 weeks, they're on the way from Bangkok
ONLY DO THIS PART IF YOU ARE CHANGING YOUR BULB COLOR
First thing you need to do is remove the green light bulb bubble covers, they gave the stock gauges a green tint when they were lit up, but because i am changing the bulb colors i don't need them anymore.
Take a screw driver and gently tap it with something, it'll pop right out, i took my gauge faces off before doing this so it fell right out of the bottom, if you don't.. well, good luck getting it out without damaging something.
First i did the tachometer, i forgot to take a picture of it when it was black but hopefully the speedo will give you an idea of what you need to do.
Completely take apart the gauge assembly, remove the needle, unscrew the original face and apply the vinyl.
This was the hardest part, that little needle sticking up didn't have a pre-cut hole, i pressed the vinyl down flat against the tip of the needle and made an X with my razor blade, i was able to push it down almost flat to the gauge.
After that, i pressed the razor blade against the base of the needle, and rotated the gauge around the blade to get a circular cut. After that it was just a matter of lining everything up just right.
Clock was the easiest, taking the needles off was a pain in the ass though.
If you haven't noticed yet, i painted my needles dark blue, the color will show much better in natural sunlight during the day, and at night when the gauge is lit up, it'll look black under the red light so its easier to see instead of the white needle on white face.
These were a pain in the ass, you have to almost completely disassemble them, they are two pieces (top and bottom) the vinyls come in one piece, so your cut needs to be perfectly straight. Don't worry about being precise on the gap because a black piece from the gauge bezel covers the center
I never took a before picture, so here is one from google
And the afters
Not a single fuck was given here, the derp who owned this car made a HUGE bondo patch on the bottom of the gas cap, normally i would take the time to shape a piece of metal around here, or flat out buy a replacement panel, but in all honesty i really don't give a fuck, i will probably sell the car in the next 5 years so the next guy can deal with this one. 
Started to build up the bondo in small layers i will reshape it later when it drys. I'm limited in the amount of work i can do at the moment due to my shoulder being fucked up, so i'm keeping everything simple. 
I don't plan on putting the emblems back on the back since my BRE spoiler will be going there, gonna fill the holes up with bondo. The passenger side isn't too bad either just surface rust. 
If you're wondering why there are large patches of bondo its for 2 reasons. 1) its covering the large expanse of metal underneath it. 2) there is actually a big step down from paint to metal, the bondo will help even this out when i sand the car down for primer and paint. The Black primer is to help find imperfections i cant normally see in the bondo. 
My Girlfriend actually sanded a lot of this because i couldn't, 2 small patches where i fucked up on the passenger side, other then that it looks good. 
Cut out the rotted area of the rocker panel, wire brushed the rest of the rust and POR 15'd the shit out of it.. hoping for the best here. 
Cutting around rust spots with a cutting wheel 
Lol frame rails
Gonna clean this one up later with the sawzall, i can only fit the cutting wheel in larger areas.
lolrust, and my girlfriends legs
Cut wires, Although i am pretty sure this is just for the climate control and radio / speakers im not totally sure. I still need to find out if the engine harness plugs into the EFI bracket on the driver side. Also, i need to find out where the fuck the hazard light harness went.. its missing. 
Mostly put back together for now, i needed to free up space in the garage for my dads birthday party this easter sunday. 
He loves the look of the classic Z cars and has offered to help me out with all body work and welding on this car, the entire rear end will be filled in and smoothed out, and because i will be slamming this car to the ground the exhaust will probably come out of the rear end sort of like this, off to the left side though and it'll have an exhaust shield above it. 
These were a pain in the ass, you have to almost completely disassemble them, they are two pieces (top and bottom) the vinyls come in one piece, so your cut needs to be perfectly straight. Don't worry about being precise on the gap because a black piece from the gauge bezel covers the center
I never took a before picture, so here is one from google
And the afters 
After digging around i didn't see any rust on the transmission tunnel, only the floors / frame rails this is really good news since the total amount of rusted floors is about 2.5 square feet of sheet met
Time to cover up the metal, gonna use this stuff called "microspheres" its a filler and volumizer for weight reduction of paints and puddies etc. Some people use it for model airplanes and things like that. For me however, i will be using the other added bonus of this stuff, Sound deadening. It works amazing for that, all i need to do is prime the surface and brush it on mixed up with some type of paint. 
Microspheres are actually what is used in the product called "lizard skin" its marketed as such, a strong light weight brush on or spray on paint that has sound deadening characteristics, problem is its expensive.. 149$ for the "gun" you need to spray it with, plus the cost of the paint itself.. i believe its about 100$ a gallon. 
